Oliwa Cathedral

The Archcathedral of Oliwa is a magnificent and historic building that showcases the rich architectural heritage of the region. This three-nave basilica is a magnificent example of Cistercian architecture, with its unique transept and multi-sided closed presbytery, which is surrounded by an ambulatory. The facade of the cathedral is adorned with two towering spires that rise 46 meters into the sky and are crowned with sharply-edged helmets. These spires, along with the intricate details of the facade, give the cathedral a striking appearance.

One of the most prominent features of the cathedral is the Baroque portal, which dates back to 1688. This portal is surrounded by three windows of varying sizes and three cartouches, adding to the overall beauty of the building. The interior of the cathedral is equally impressive, with the crossing of the naves being overseen by a bell tower, which is a typical element of Cistercian architecture.

The cathedral is 17.7 meters high, 19 meters wide, and 107 meters long, making it the longest Cistercian church in the world. The interior of the cathedral measures 97.6 meters, providing ample space for visitors to admire the many works of art that are housed within. These works of art range from Renaissance to Baroque, Rococo, and classical styles, and each showcases a unique artistic vision that is truly stunning.

In conclusion, the Archcathedral of Oliwa is a magnificent building that is a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the region. With its intricate details, towering spires, and magnificent works of art, this cathedral is a must-visit for anyone who is interested in the history of architecture and art.

The history of the Cistercian Monastery "Beatae Mariae de Oliva" or "ad montem Olivarum" in Gdańsk, Poland dates back to 1186 when Sambor I of Gdańsk, the son of Subisław I and Duke of Pomerania, founded the monastery. Over the centuries, the monastery and its church underwent various changes and events.

In 1224, during the pagan Prussian Crusade, the first Romanesque oratory was burned down. However, the church was rebuilt and extended in 1234 (or 1236), only to be destroyed once again by another Prussian Crusade. In 1350, a fire caused by excessive chimney soot completely consumed the church and the monastery. The current structure of both buildings dates back to the second half of the 14th century.

In 1577, during the rebellion of the city of Gdańsk, the Gdańsk mercenary army attacked the monastery and burned it to the ground. The church was rebuilt between 1578 and 1583. In 1594, the church was consecrated by Hieronim Rozdrażewski, a bishop from Włocławek.

In 1831, the Prussian authorities closed down the Cistercian monastery in Oliwa and the church, along with some of its associated buildings, was handed over to a Catholic parish. In 1925, Pope Pius XI established the Diocese of Gdańsk, elevating the Oliwa church to the status of a cathedral and making Oliwa the capital of the diocese and the seat of bishops.

In 1976, Pope Paul VI elevated the church to the status of a minor basilica. And in 1992, Pope John Paul II issued a bull establishing the Archdiocese of Gdańsk with its seat in Oliwa and raising the basilica to the status of an archcathedral.

The Oliwa Cathedral holds 23 altars of immense historical significance, each unique in its own way. These altars reflect a mix of Baroque and Rococo styles, primarily made of marble and depict the main principles of the post-Trent church. The most noteworthy of all the altars is the current High Altar, built in 1688, considered to be the finest Baroque work of art in Pomerania. Another magnificent altar, made in the Netherland Renaissance style, previously served as the main altar until 1688.

The paintings in the altars, presbytery, and main nave were created by renowned 17th-century artists including Herman Han, Adolf Boy, Andrzej Stech, and Andreas Schlütera. The cathedral's interior also showcases the Rococo chapels of the Holy Cross and St John of Nepomuk, an ambo, tombstones, epitaphs, the Pomeranian Dukes' tomb, the Kos family tomb, the bishop's crypt, antique chandeliers, canopies, and numerous other antiquities. Of special cultural significance is the feretory, which displays Our Lady of Oliwa with the Infant Jesus and is carried during the annual walking pilgrimage to the Calvary of Wejherowo.

The cathedral holds organ concerts throughout the year and the beautifully restored monastery, now belonging to the Gdańsk Seminary, showcases the collection of the Diocesan Museum. Oliwa Cathedral holds immense importance to the Kassubian culture and serves as a symbol of their rich history and heritage.

The Great Oliwa Organ, renowned for its magnificence, was created between 1763 and 1788 by Johann Wilhelm Wulff, also known as Brother Michael, who was a Cistercian Monk. This musical instrument was truly a work of art, with 83 registers, consisting of 5100 pipes, and three manual keyboards, known as Hauptwerk, Oberwerk and Kronwerk. The manual keyboards were used to play the main organ, the main organ, and the crown organ, respectively. The organ also featured a foot keyboard, called the pedal, as well as mechanical tracker action and 14 wedge-shaped bellows.

At the time of its construction, the console of the organ was located in the central part of the matroneum, which was an unusual feature in Northern Europe. The front of the organ was beautifully adorned with Rococo sculptures and moveable angels that held bells, trumpets, stars, and suns. At the time of its creation, the Great Oliwa Organ was the largest of its kind in Europe and possibly in the world.

However, in 1790, the new Abbot of Oliwa commissioned Friedrich Rudolf Dalitz, a well-known Gdańsk organ master, to move the console from the middle to the north wing of the matroneum. This task was extremely difficult due to the size and complexity of the organ and the tracker action system. However, Dalitz successfully completed the task between 1790 and 1793.

In 1863-1865, the Great Oliwa Organ underwent a major reconstruction that gave it a Romantic layer. The renovation was carried out by Friedric Kaltschmidt, an organ master from Szczecin. Kaltschmidt added a mechanical tracker action and 32 new registers to Wulff's creation, while leaving the 52 existing registers (some of which were renovated), and all the front pipes. To comply with the trend of the time, Kaltschmidt enclosed the third manual keyboard, the Kronwerk, into a swell box. As a result of the renovation, the Great Oliwa Organ consisted of 84 registers assigned to three manuals and one pedal.

The great Oliwa organ, located in the Oliwa Cathedral, has undergone several significant changes in its structure throughout the years. During the interwar period, between 1934 and 1935, Gdańsk organ builder Joseph Goebel made the most impactful alterations to the instrument. He extended the organ to 4 manuals and added a new electro-pneumatic tracker action, complete with wind chests. To do so, he utilized 51 registers from those already present, renovating some and adding new ones. Additionally, he connected the choir organ to the main console. After the completion of these modifications, the Oliwa organ consisted of 82 standard registers and 5 transmitted ones.

After World War II, in 1955, the organ underwent a comprehensive renovation carried out by Wacław Biernacki from Cracow. The last major overhaul of the instrument took place between 1966 and 1968, performed by the company of Zygmund Kamiński from Warsaw. During this time, a new disposition was introduced, missing pipes were added, and a newly built positive was placed in the third arc in the west of the nave. Today, the great Oliwa organ is one of the largest in Poland, comprising 96 registers, 5 manuals, a pedal, an electro-pneumatic tracker action, and an electronic system recording up to 64 combinations of the so-called Setzer type. The front pipes, which were created by Johann Wilhelm Wulff, remain intact. The great organ is connected to the choir organ and is considered one of the biggest in Poland.

The current principal organist at the Oliwa Cathedral is Professor Roman Perucki. A twenty-minute concerto is organized daily, except on principal feasts and a few other specified days. The concerto schedule can be found online and attendees are encouraged to arrive at the cathedral before the specified hour as the door may be closed during the performance. Visitors who identify as Christian often say the Our Father prayer before listening to the music.

The choir organ, located in the south wing of the transept, has a rich history dating back to 1680 when it was built by Johann Georg Wulff. At the time of its construction, it was comprised of 14 registers and was considered a marvel of its time. In 1758, Johann Wilhelm Wulff carried out extensive renovations on the organ, expanding its capabilities to 18 registers. This renovation further established the choir organ as one of the finest instruments of its kind.

In 1874, Carl Schuricht performed a restoration of the organ, but there is limited information about the specifics of this restoration. A Berlin-based company of brothers Oswald and Paul Dinse conducted another reconstruction of the organ in 1902, introducing a pneumatic tracker action and reducing the number of registers to 14 (with 2 manuals and a pedal).

Between 1934 and 1935, Joseph Goebel conducted a restoration of the great organ and took care of the choir organ as well. He installed a new electric tracker action and connected the choir organ to the main console, thereby improving its functionality and making it easier to play.

In 2003, the choir organ received a major upgrade when a contemporary 17-pipe Emanuel Kemper organ with mechanical and electric tracker action was imported from Germany. Organ builder Jerzy Kukla installed the new instrument in an antique organ case, replacing the previous one. Today, the choir organ is connected to the great organ and continues to be an important part of the musical heritage of the transept.